Production Techniques

Electroforming is a technique that has been used by TOUS for more than 20 years, the result of a large investment into innovative new technologies. It allows for the creation of larger, lightweight, quality pieces without the need for soldering. Through the chemical process of electrolysis, particles of metal (sterling silver) are placed over a Perspex base to create jewelry up to 400 microns thick (that is to say, 100 times thicker in silver than a coating). The non-metallic core remains in order to give the piece stability and strength. In contrast, in gold pieces, the core used is made of a metal with a low melting point (pewter) and is always removed, as gold is sturdier than silver.

Casting is the most frequently used method in TOUS’ workshops and in the jewelry industry in general. A liquid wax is injected into a rubber mold and, once cold, is covered with plaster. Then, the plaster cast is placed in a centrifuge where metal, usually gold or silver, is injected to replace the wax, creating the desired piece of jewelry.

The sintering process is suitable for pieces with complex shapes. It consists of a laser that melts thin layers of metal powder to create a digitally designed figure. The programme divides the 3D design into layers and a moving arm lays a thin layer of atomised metal powder on a platform, while a laser melts the areas where the 3D marks what should be part of the piece. The arm then passes through again to deposit another layer of powder, and so on until the final piece is created. This technique is limited by metal. Only gold, titanium and platinum can be sintered. Collections such as Real Sissy and some Teddy Bear bears have been created using the sintering process.

There is a multitude of different machining processes and techniques that enable jewellery to be made quickly and easily, although they always require a skilled artisan for the perfect finish.